In this age of commercially guided expeditions and vacationing hordes in the Himalaya, Stephen Venables, a member of climbing's greatest generation (and the first Briton to summit Everest without oxygen), still seeks out climbing's loneliest and most difficult challenges. In addition to his tremendously accomplished mountaineering career and his award-winning books, Venables is known for traveling to remote towers of rock and snow in the farthest flung corners of the world, with tiny groups--typically one or two companions. In fact, it is those climbs, as much as his exploits on Everest, that have helped make Venables one of contemporary mountaineering's most influential figures. In particular it is the two dramatic climbs in Kashmir recounted in Lost Mountains which helped shape today's increasingly small-sized, elite mountaineering expeditions. First published in the UK under the title Painted Mountains, Lost Mountains won climbing literature's most prestigious literary award, The Boardman-Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature. It is a gripping account of how a skillful, bold, and creative mountaineer survives situations that would overwhelm almost anyone else. 20 black-and-white photographs accompany the text.
The first part of this book focuses on Venables' and Dick Renshaw's summit of Kishtwar-Shivling, a then unclimbed 6000 meter peak in the Himalaya. Venables is a capable author and conveys a sense of adventure that books of this type often lack. He understates the danger they faced on the mountain, particularly after their summit climb. The second half of the book deals with the Alpine Club's climbing in the Eastern Karakoram. Venables did make a mistake and he certainly expressed his sense of embarrassment at his blunder (I don't want to spoil the book for those who haven't read it). Venables does not "rag on the ones who saved him." This book is a nice change of pace, as it focuses on basically unknown mountains.
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